Join the Mile High club

My sister lives in East London, and to say she's an evangelist would be an understatement. I'm constantly told how much "cooler" it is over there. How much more "innovative", "creative", about the amazing supperclub she went to the night before. Well, what East can do well I'll wager West will take on and do better, and when it comes to pop-up restaurants, I've a case in point.

A few weeks back, I checked into a glamorous departure lounge in Notting Hill, and one hour, 3 cocktails, and around 10 moose and beetroot canapes later, arrived (in some style) in the heart of Gotenburg. Dine Mile High is the innovative new pop-up restaurant concept dreamed up by 4 cousins from West London. Inspired by the golden age of air travel, each pop-up takes passengers to a different "destination", recreated through fantastic set design, delicious canapés, cocktails and a wonderfully authentic 'local menu'.

The exceptional attention to detail was what made the whole experience so memorable. The staff were local actors and drama students, and right from the check-in desk to the roaming semi-inebriated pilot, who called passengers aboard by name, the act did not slip once. Furnished with boarding passes and passports, we hit the departure lounge bar - earning passport stamps for each drink we sampled - whilst Scandi air hostesses served us with mousse canapes, pickled beetroot and cabbage, and all manner of Swedish delights.

Soon it was time to be called aboard our 'flight', and a few short moments later we were sat in the heart of "Gotenburg". Antlers and elk skins lined the wall, we sat along minimalist wood shared tables, and the cabin crew prepared us for take off. In a very well thought out pastiche of the standard lifejacket-and-exits routine, we were taught the correct way to imbibe and enjoy the meal (always ensure your neighbours glasses are full to the brim, in case you were wondering), and then we began.

Scallops were served with creamy potato puree in sea shells, we shared a smorgasbord of shrimps, salmon and marie rose sauce with our neighbours, and we devoured the elk steak with golden beetroot and chanterelles, rounding off with a scrummy Swedish lingonberry crumble. The menu was delicious - think noma, rather than ikea - and the seating arrangement and amenable hostesses made it a really convivial evening (the half bottle of wine each certainly helped).

The whole concept was fantastically thought out, and great fun to boot. Future departures will take guests to Beirut, Sicily and Mozambique, so make sure to bookmark www.dinemilehigh.com for when the tickets come out. This is certainly one frequent flyers club I'd recommend joining!

Dine Mile High
www.dinemilehigh.com
Next departures: 1-4th and 8-11th May 2013: Beirut.

Veggie Vegan-izing

One of my favourite Saturday morning rituals is to make the walk from the Sands End to the North End Road, and spend a few hours picking up my groceries from the fabulous local market they have there. This is no posh farmers market (although there is a fabulous cheese stall, a place with oils and olives, the odd food cart and an excellent fish stall) - we're talking good, honest and super-cheap bowls of veg, real local traders and no frills. The queues are long but I like this way of shopping because it's an experience, you feel like you're helping the community and the slow pace and social atmosphere beats a trip to Sainsbury's hands down.

But I digress.... the point is, whilst I'm off feeling a bit eco, a bit community-spirited, super-duper healthy (I am, after all, lugging cart loads of vegetables about in resusable canvas bags - indulge me), I always feel a renewed impetus to try and act a bit more healthily in general. Then last week, I made a truly serendipitous discovery. Having ventured a few blocks further down the road, avidly plotting my new Gwyneth Paltrow-like existence, I came across 222 Veggie Vegan. I've never really considered going vegan, but those who know me well will remember various short-lived health fads: an obsession with quinoa, smoothies containing algae, a period through which I drank quite absurd amounts of green tea.

222 is absolutely nothing fancy at all - and I don't mean that in a pejorative sense. The space is small, the decor very plain, the food served from a small and crowded metal buffet bar (although, I understand that in the evening the candles come out and you can go a-la-carte). However, with an all-you-can-eat vegan lunch buffet at £7.50, you can't exactly expect white table cloths and atmospheric plant-life. And my goodness, this food was not the vegetable mush and abundance of tofu you might expect (and fear) of vegan cuisine, this is the sort of food you guzzle more and more of. I filled my boots three times over, and best of all, it was totally guilt free. Vegan food is super healthy, right? Not a hair on an animal's head harmed in the making of this lunchtime feast. We had carrot tart, we had aubergine and faux-mozarella bake, we had an awesome chickpea salad: all the while imagining ourselves taking on increasingly glowing hues and fizzing with vitamins - a bit like Super Mario when he eats his magic mushrooms.

A vegan menu might not be for everyone, but this little place offers cracking value, and the food may just surprise you. You often pay through the nose for health-food, but this joint offers delicious, low-key, wonderfully nutritious and guilt-free grub at incredible prices. Next time you feel like giving your insides a little TLC, I highly recommend you check it out.

222 Veggie Vegan
222 North End Road
London
W14 9NU

Super Suda Thai

We're both massive fans of Thai cuisine, so forgive us for a moment if we venture out of South West London and review something a little further afield. My only excuse is that I often walk through St Martin's Courtyard on my lunch break (lots of SW6wers work near Covent Garden/Leicester Square, right?) and had long wanted to check out Suda Thai.

It's a large venue, with a bright, airy, contemporary and fun interior and a very extensive menu, so I had my fingers crossed for something out of the ordinary Thai fare. Starting with the crab and chicken 'firecrackers', I certainly got my wish. This twist on the humble crispy wonton had lots of interesting flavours and was served in an appealing set of preserve jars on a metal rack - I'm a sucker for good presentation. Sarah's starter was an interesting sea bass dish, served on a bed of crispy salad, with clean and fresh flavours.

Washed down with a crisp bottle of Fault Line Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, so far so good with the starters. The next course, however, was slightly a tale of two main courses. I had the Choo Chee Pla (sea bass in a red curry sauce, for those of us who don't speak Thai!), which I really enjoyed. The flavours were at once rich, intense, yet light and fresh - just as great Thai should be. However, the Krapao Gai (chicken with thai basil and spicy chili) was unfortunately a little plain. It is a classic Thai dish and it definitely wasn't bad, but the flavours were much more flat than they are when this dish is served at its best.

Nonetheless, there were plenty of smiles all round when it came to dessert. Both Sarah and I opted for the banana fritters (sometimes an oldie is a goodie) and these were exemplary. A large portion with a crispy batter and just the right amount of honey, and a refreshing dollop of vanilla ice cream, was just the thing to finish off the meal.

Suda Thai is definitely a good option whether you're in that part of town for an evening or theatre, or simply fancy a flavourful lunch out with colleagues. The menu is extensive and I'd definitely recommend opting for one of the more adventurous dishes. The service was really friendly, although quite casual (several different people waited our table throughout the evening), but I thought that lent to the informal and buzzy atmosphere.

SUDA Thai Cafe Restaurant
St Martin's Courtyard
off St Martin's Courtyard
Covent Garden
London WC2E 9AB

On Virgin Ground

Whoops! Who ate all the bruschetta...

For someone who fancies themselves a bit of a foodie - if only for the amount I eat, as opposed to any real  expertise - living within easy reach of the World's End is definitely a plus, as the last year or so has seen a range of openings, switcharounds and more on the restaurant scene. When Rosso Pomodoro shut, it left many of its fans disappointed, and the site lay empty for quite a few months... seemingly the recession's ubiquitous calling card, the empty shop front, had finally hit Chelsea. So it was as much relief as curiosity that I felt on seeing the builders move in to develop the World's End latest Italian venture: Terra Vergine.

Inspired by the Abruzzo region of Italy, the emphasis is on quality, natural and pure ingredients. The menu is diverse, although not too long, following the traditional structure of starters and pasta (normally a first course in Italy), followed by a selection of meat or fish dishes, and sides chosen separately. They definitely sit on the pricey and more sophisticated end of the spectrum, although the dishes are not overly complex or adventurous - the emphasis is on quality.

Sitting outside on one of August's rare sunny afternoons, I was certainly struck by the freshness of the vegetables adorning my bruschetta: set off with a crisp white wine, and a good dose of sunshine, I definitely felt a blissful Mediterranean vibe. Having whet our appetites, a generous helping of garlic and white wine seafood linguine (packed full of our sea-dwelling friends) and some lobster spaghetti managed to transport us almost completely - only the rattling of the number 11 bus going by managed us out of our reverie. Rounding off with a traditional Italian affogato (amaretto, espresso and vanilla ice-cream), we'd enjoyed a meal as good as you'd find anywhere on the Italian coast. However, we'd also spent a fair few pennies. Whilst Terra Vergine is not Chelsea's priciest Italian, it's not your cheapest option either. Definitely one for a date, rather than a wallet friendly option for a group of friends. It will be interesting to see how it fits in amongst the many other Italian options in the immediate area.

Terra Vergine
442 Kings Road, London SW10 0LQ

Classic Elegance at the Brompton Bar and Grill

I'm not usually one to knock themed restaurants, nor an interesting concept, nor a restaurant experience that comes a little out of left field, but sometimes the classic way is just the best way. Elegant surroundings, recognisable but sophisticated dishes done seriously well, white tablecloths and impeccable, discreet service. All these things may be 'unoriginal' but it's a winning formula that many bastions of the restaurant world rely on, and that the punter knows they can trust. In Knightsbridge particularly, you get one of two things: seriously bling, or old-world refinement. The Brompton Bar & Grill is a sterling example of the latter. It reminded Sarah and I slightly of a chic Paris brasserie, with the simple illustrated pictures adorning the back wall, a classic dark wooden bar dominating the front one, crisp white tablecloths and a menu full of European contemporary favourites, which when they arrived, were cooked to perfection.

After some pretty superb cocktails from a well edited menu of old classics and contemporary twists (the Gin Aperol Spritz was a stand out) we kicked off the culinary proceedings with the dressed dorset crab on crispy brown toast with lemon, and the mushroom ravioli. The crab was beautifully smooth and fresh, and the raviolo a great mix of earthiness and well managed textures. Thumbs up for both, particularly the crab, which was simply a top quality rendition of one of my favourite classic dishes.

 

We followed up with a classic dover sole (which was done exquisitely, the texture just right and the sauce nicely tangy) with creamed spinach and handcut chips, as well as a wonderful confit of duck with lentils, bacon and shallots which was wonderfully rich in different wintry flavours and textures.

Finishing up, we couldn't resist the chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream (my favourite!) as well as the rhubarb crumble with vanilla crumble, which was also excellent, with the crumble topping being slightly crunchy - just as I like it.

Washed down with a fantastic bottle of the house white, this was an evening full of delicious European favourites, all of fantastic quality, with old world service in an elegant locale. I would heartily recommend it.

Brompton Bar & Grill
243 Brompton Road
London SW3 2EP

For bookings call: 0207 589 8005

True Speakeasy Style at The Blind Tiger

Having long been fascinated by the 1920s, I was only too glad to welcome the trend for speakeasy style cocktail bars that have been popping up all over town. Although a casual night down the local boozer certainly has its place, sometimes a return to old-world glamour, an emphasis on finely mixed cocktails, an elegant setting and a whiff of the illicit is more than welcome.

So, I was thrilled to hear about The Blind Tiger, a venue that promises ‘illicit dining and forbidden beverages’, and intrigued to see how they would present an intimate and old-world feel in a venue that transforms two nights a week into one of Clapham’s busiest and most raucous drinking holes – Lost Society.

The answer is this: that the devil is in the details. Your whole experience from start to finish is exquisitely crafted to recreate a quietly glamorous, and ever so slightly outside the law, 1920s evening out. On ringing the doorbell, your waiter will pull aside the viewing portal to ensure you come alone, before ushering you through a softly lit courtyard with an outdoor bar. Upon being seated in your candlelit booth, complete with beaded curtain for privacy, you are presented with your ‘prescription’ – prohibition era parlance for cocktail list – to select from some of the most inviting ‘medicinal liquor’ you’re likely to find. As jazz plays softly in the background, and the water tinkles from your glass-cut decanter, the candlelit ambience firmly evokes “the Golden Age of the Cocktail”, and so do the drinks.

We sampled the Jasmine and Elderflower Martini, Chili and Lemongrass Margarita, the Gentleman’s Mojito and the French 75. All were beautifully crafted and presented, using the glassware of the era ( I do love authentic champagne saucers) but special mentions go to the Chili and Lemongrass Margarita which trod the line beautifully between sweet and spicy, and the Gentleman’s Mojito which was wonderfully warming but with a crisp edge.

Having got well into the spirit, we were whisked upstairs to the restaurant area. Amazingly, this very mezzanine hosts the Lost Society dance floor on Friday and Saturday night and the place is absolutely transformed with deep brown leather sofas, crisp white tablecloths, elegant flower arrangements and a dimly lit chandelier. Just as the cocktails were elegantly presented, so our food came carefully arranged and with sophisticated touches. We started with a pigeon breast on potato rosti with quince puree, which was surprisingly delicate for what is in essence game and mash, and came beautifully presented with an edible flower. We also sampled the braised squid with mini-pan friend sea bass which was also very tasty but perhaps not quite as impressive as the pidgeon.

Moving on, we treated ourselves the Chateaubriand which arrived with wonderfully chunky potato wedges and both alioli and peppercorn sauces. The meat was tender, succulent and juicy, and we only wished we’d ordered double rations. Extra portions or not, we arrived at dessert totally stuffed, so elected to share the apple and hazelnut crumble, with cinnamon ice cream. This was rich and perfectly spiced, and managed to raise the game considerably for a dessert most people usually sample along with a Sunday roast.

Unfortunately my camera gave in before I could photograph the main and dessert courses, so you’ll have to imagine them for yourselves, but both looked as good as they tasted.

The Blind Tiger is not the cheapest place to eat and drink, but for the experience I’d say the money was worth it. It outperforms on the cocktails, as befits somewhere focussing on recreating the speakeasy vibe, yet also provides a menu that goes beyond being simply enjoyable and is fairly reasonably priced. I’d definitely recommend checking it out, and will be back with the girls for their delicious sounding Sunday Afternoon Tea too. 

The Blind Tiger

697 Wandsworth Road

Clapham, SW8 3JF

Open Sunday, Tuesday - Thursday evenings

Medlar - a World's End Gem

Long known as the "grotty end" of the King's Road, the World's End is having somewhat of a revival in the restaurant stakes. Not only has the eponymous pub been featured in a certain E4 "reality" series multiple times, but Osteria Dell'Arancio and local cakery the Chelsea Teapot also delight. Medlar sits on this stretch of the Kings Road approaching Gunter Grove, and if the exterior seems smart but unprepossessing the fanfare that accompanied the first few reviews of the food certainly ensured this Chelsea newbie made a splash - one local blogger declared it his "best meal of 2011". So naturally, as my visit approached, I was feeling pretty excited, particularly due to the heritage of the owners - both of whom have done stints at SW12 power-house Chez Bruce.

As mentioned previously, the exterior is certainly very smart - a slick mid grey facade, with green lettering and a smart verandah out front - but the look is quite discreet. Medlar is a fairly small venue, I'd say around 12 tables, and elegantly decorated within, with lots of low lighting, crisp white tablecloths and a clean wooden finish.

Kicking off the evening with a Campari and Soda (seems to be a tradition these days), I scanned the short but inventive menu eagerly. Helpfully, for those of larger appetites at least, the decision as to number of courses is already taken, and price need not play a part in your menu choices. Besides a few dishes that carry a surcharge, a 3 course meal will set you back £39, whatever you choose. Having heard the crab raviolo much touted as the "must-have" starter (the Guardian review said it was "as good as any starter I'd had all year" - high praise indeed), we made sure to order that, along with a foie gras and hamhock terrine with green bean, dandelion and shallot salad, walnuts and toasted brioche. Although I thought my hopes may have been raised a bit too far by all the praise heaped on the raviolo, it did not disappoint, and was creamy, rich and delicious without being too filling and overwhelming, arriving as it did with samphire, brown shrimp and leeks in a seafood bisque - absolutely divine. I'm not much a terrine and pate girl myself, but the boy assures me that the foie gras and hamhock terrine was a great way to kick off the meal too.

Unoriginally, I'm afraid, we both went for the under blade fillet steak, with bone marrow, salad, triple cooked chips and bearnaise sauce. This was a "proper" steak, as my partner in crime put it, cooked to perfection and also served with a healthy dose of garlic and herb butter, which complemented the steak perfectly although rather made the bearnaise sauce a bit redundant. Still, the sauce was fab, and served separately in an enormous portion. The chips were HUGE and perhaps a little rich for my liking but the exterior was well crisped and the insides soft and fluffy so I can't fault the chef on that either.

Now before I continue, I must iterate that the service at Medlar was charming, seamless and discrete. However, on the night we visited, there was "un petit accident" in the kitchen resulting in a power cut just after our main course! The staff could not have handled it better (we were unable to have coffee, but would we like some complimentary champagne instead? Hell, yes!) and somehow they managed to produce two excellent puddings for us - even if we did rather feel like contestants on dating in the dark! I must admit, when my gigantic crème brulee turned up, I rather wondered if they hadn't picked up the wrong dish in the blackness, but I am assured that this portion size is just par for the course. Not that I was complaining - there were no gimmicks with this simple but perfectly executed brulee, and I was thankful for the extra quantity in my bowl, even if I felt a little sick afterwards. Dessert number two was an creamy yet refreshing AND single-portion sized glazed creme chiboust with caramelized oranges and hazelnut brittle - another success story.

Medlar is smart without being too fancy for it's own good. There is strong attention to detail and interesting yet uncomplex dishes are served to perfection. The prices are pretty darn reasonable and the service excellent if not rather formal. Not one for a boozy, bawdy night but fine quality dining suitable for families, couples and foodie friends.

Medlar
438 Kings Road
London SW12 0LJ

Bookings on 0207 349 1900

PS excuse the pictures being very dark - some were taken in the power cut!

Definitely worth adding to The Collection...

                                   

Most South West Londoners have either heard of or been to ‘The Collection’ in their lives, from Chelsea footballers to high rolling city slickers the flaming torch lit entrance has been a beacon of prosperity for over ten years. Sadly for a while times of austerity saw this glamorous hotspot’s popularity dwindle, but thankfully, as Jess and I discovered last week it’s back with a vengeance- revamped, refurbed and looking sleeker than ever. 

                                                  

Imposing as ever the entrance to The Collection makes you feel very elitist; burly bouncers give you the once over before you shimmy down the illuminated catwalk to a tiny door leading to an Alice in Wonderland style playground for grownups. True to Chelsea form a bevy of glamorous hostesses in skin tight bandage dresses are primed to greet you, take your coat and generally make you feel like a VIP. The room is as dramatic as before but gone is the nineties chintzy ‘Asian decor’. The high ceiling is adorned with a contemporary crumpled metallic chandelier designed by Tom Dixon, one of many examples of his innovative design throughout the restaurant. 

                                           

Having poured over the refreshingly different cocktail menu I opted for the ‘Prince Charming’, a glittering raspberry concoction that was delightfully fruity. Jess enjoyed her usual favourite, an aperol spritz and we began the somewhat mammoth task of choosing some ‘Southern Mediterranean’ small plates (tapas) to start. Head Chef Alex Fanzola has carefully handpicked his favourite suppliers, favouring quality over convenience to create an exciting yet sophisticated menu. We both agreed this would be the perfect venue for a date or special occasion; low lighting, intimate booths and exceptional service make for an informal but very elegant atmosphere. 

                                                  

Guided by the gorgeous Alex himself we ordered an array of ‘small plates’ and two exceptional main courses. The Southern Mediterranean theme encompasses something for even the pickiest of eaters, luckily as you may have gathered this is something that Jess and I don’t suffer from! As an avid fan of Daphne’s, the local SW3 Italian neighbour I was delighted to discover how equally excellent the food at The Collection is. 

                                            

Over the course of the evening we devoured chorizo with sweet potato and rocket, seared squid with haricot beans, burrata with extra virgin olive oil and chilli and cured scallop carpaccio with cucumber and caviar for our ‘small plates’. Most notable are the delicious Italian imported infused olive oils that they bring to accompany the bread, the truffle oil in particular was really superb. Sticking with the typically girlie seafood theme I ordered the barbecued grouper with samphire and spiced sweet corn for my main course and Jess had the slow-cooked sturgeon with chanterelles, courgettes and basil emulsion. Boys fear not, there is also an array of steaks and grills for those seeking something a little heartier.

                                            

We were really blown away by the quality of the food and so felt it only polite to order dessert, in the name of research of course! My refreshing spiced pineapple with chilli, coriander, lemon sorbet and chilli jelly was the perfect pallet cleanser and Jess loved her warm pistachio tartlet with white chocolate mousse and macerated cherries. 

                                            

The Collection is not a cheap dining option but you certainly get what you pay for, and a little more. The cocktails, food, presentation, service and atmosphere were all 10 out of 10, rich boyfriend or not it is really worth a visit. 

264 Brompton Road,
Chelsea
London
SW3 2AS